who better to get restaurant recommendations from than a roman? so i asked a fellow max weber who lived in rome all his life: where do you eat in rome? we don’t want anything particularly fancy, just some really good, tasty food.

he gave us a handful of recommendations, and we tried a couple of them. and now, i am passing on the torch of foodie wisdom.

first off, there was the trattoria da lucia. tucked away in the gorgeous little alleyways of trastevere, we decided to stop there for lunch. don’t expect the waiters to wait on you hand and foot – its not the kind of joint. here, the dishes, like the service, are very straightforward – but boy do they hit the spot. the pasta was amazing – we had amatriciana  and  alla grecia, two typically roman pastas – as was my artichoke, and phil’s tiramisu. and to seal the deal, a half bottle of red wine. the atmosphere was so relaxed, the food so simple and good. and the bread….. oh the bread! (after being subjected to the horrors of salt-less tuscan bread for weeks, i truly deserved that still-slightly-warm, thick, crusty bread dipped in olive oil and salt.)

after several hours of walking, hannah arendt and a couple margaritas, we were hungry again, and around 9pm we marched up to pizzeria da baffetto near piazza navon, a roman institution which, in the warmer months, you have to queue for. (turns out on a rainy sunday in january you can just walk right up whenever you want and get a table immediately.) i cannot remember what pizza i had, nor can i remember phil’s. but oh – oh – it was so delicious. the pizza dough so thin, so light… i couldn’t quite manage to finish mine, and in hindsight, that was stupid. and all this to a backdrop of old photographs plastered all over the walls? yes please.

so if you’re looking really good roman food, and you don’t know gregorio, and you find tripadvisor overwhelming and not always on the mark, try these places. with a mixed crowd of tourists and locals, you’ll fit right in.





(trattoria da lucia)

(vicolo del mattonato 2)

(pizzeria da baffetto)

(via del governo vecchio 114)



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